The use decides the family
The Forest Products Laboratory's division of finishes into film-forming and penetrating does most of the choosing. Films are easier to clean and better at resisting scratches, dents and stains, so they suit surfaces used and wiped every day; penetrating finishes leave the wood's texture, cannot peel and are simple to renew, but protect less. The families are explained in wood finish types.
| Use | Finish family | Example | What the source says |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dining or kitchen table | Film | Polyurethane | Films are easiest to clean and resist stains (FPL) |
| Floors | Hard film | Minwax floor-rated polyurethanes | Minwax: not spar urethane, which is too flexible |
| Outdoor furniture | Exterior-labelled film | Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane | Minwax: check yearly; no clear finish protects permanently |
| Cutting board, butcher block | Nondrying oil or wax | GF Butcher Block Oil; paraffin wax | FPL suggests mineral oil or paraffin; GF claims its mineral oil for food contact |
| Light-use furniture, in-the-wood look | Penetrating oil or hardwax oil | Watco Danish Oil; Osmo Polyx-Oil | Penetrating finishes renew easily but protect less (FPL) |
| Stained piece with little wear | Wax | Minwax Paste Finishing Wax | Minwax: for surfaces not needing polyurethane's hard coat |
Family behaviour after the Forest Products Laboratory; product uses as each maker states them.
Tables and tabletops
A table is wiped, spilled on and leaned on daily, which is the case the Laboratory makes for a film. Choose a polyurethane labelled for interior furniture — the comparison of makers' figures is in choosing a polyurethane. Minwax also lists bar tops and kitchen countertops among the uses for its spar urethane. Lacquer and shellac are films too, faster-drying, covered in shellac and lacquer. For an opaque surface, see choosing paint; for a light, buffed finish over stain, choosing a wood wax.
Cutting boards and food
A cutting surface is cut into, so a film on it will not last. The Forest Products Laboratory suggests mineral oil or paraffin wax for cutting boards and butcher blocks; General Finishes says the mineral oils in its Butcher Block Oil meet the requirements for wood that contacts food and that the product is maintenance, to be reapplied regularly. Food-contact claims are scoped to a product and a use — see food-safe wood finishes before choosing.
Outdoors
Outdoors, a film finish peels from wood the sun has already degraded unless it is sanded back, the Laboratory explains, and penetrating finishes need renewing far more often. Minwax formulates its spar urethane with ultraviolet absorbers for exterior wood and says even so that no clear exterior finish permanently protects wood and that it should be checked every year. For cedar, teak or pressure-treated wood used as decking or fencing, look for products made for those uses; they are outside this guide.
Walnut, cherry and colour
Every clear finish deepens the look of wood, and some add colour: General Finishes says its oil-based Arm-R-Seal brings out the beauty of walnut and mahogany and ambers over time. Wood also changes colour by itself — the Laboratory notes that dark woods tend to lighten and light woods darken with age, and that cherry takes exceptionally long to even out. Test the finish on an offcut; see a stain sample board.
Note— No ranking here
BenchRoot has not tested these products, and makers' words such as durable or premium are their own. The guide narrows the choice by use; the product's own data sheet then decides.
Before buying a finish
- The use: daily table, floor, outdoors, food contact or light use
- Film or penetrating, for that use
- A product whose maker names the use on its label or data sheet
- A food-contact claim from the maker, if the piece touches food
- The finish tested on an offcut of the same wood
- How it will be renewed, and how often
Sources
Uses and claims are each maker's for its own product, or the Forest Products Laboratory's for a family of finish. No product was tested and none is ranked. Deck, fence and siding finishes are a separate class of product, outside this guide.
- 1.
Christopher G. Hunt. Wood Handbook: Wood as an Engineering Material (FPL-GTR-282), Chapter 16: Finishing Wood. USDA Forest Service, Forest Products Laboratory, 2021.
Used for: Films easier to clean and better against scratches, dents and stains, thicker films for floors; penetrating finishes not peeling but lasting less long outdoors; film finishes peeling from sun-degraded wood; dark woods lightening and light woods darkening with age, cherry taking exceptionally long; makers not sharing standard definitions.
- 2.
Mark Knaebe. Finishes for Wood Bowls, Butcher Blocks, Other Items Used for Food, and Children's Toys (FinishLine). USDA Forest Service, Forest Products Laboratory, 2013.
Used for: Mineral oil and paraffin wax for cutting boards and butcher blocks; film finishes eventually chipping or peeling.
- 3.
Minwax Product Guide. Minwax.
Used for: Spar urethane for exterior wood and wood exposed to sun or water, listing bar tops and kitchen countertops among its uses but not floors, decks or fences; no clear exterior finish permanently protecting wood and a yearly check; floor-rated polyurethanes.
- 4.
Technical Data Sheet, Arm-R-Seal. General Finishes, 2020.
Used for: Arm-R-Seal, which GF says brings out the natural beauty of hardwoods such as walnut and mahogany and ambers over time.
- 5.
Butcher Block Oil (product page). General Finishes.
Used for: Butcher Block Oil's mineral oils described by GF as meeting the requirements for wood that contacts food, for cutting boards, utensils, bowls and butcher blocks, as a maintenance product applied regularly.
- 6.
Product Information, Polyx-Oil Original. Osmo, 2020.
Used for: Polyx-Oil as a hardwax oil for floors and furniture, with Osmo's own resistance claims.
- 7.
Technical Data Sheet, Minwax Paste Finishing Wax. Minwax.
Used for: Paste wax for stained surfaces that do not need the hard protective coat of polyurethane.
About this buying guide
Written by BenchRoot Editorial. How BenchRoot sources, checks and corrects its pages is set out in the Editorial Policy. If something here is wrong or unclear, the contact page explains how to tell us.
