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Wood & Materials

Know the Material.Build Around Its Nature.

Every board has a direction, a moisture content and a way of moving. The material you choose decides how a piece machines, how its joints hold, how it takes a finish and how it lasts.

Grain
Direction
Moisture
Balance
Movement
Allowance

Material Families

Grown, or made.

Solid wood keeps the structure of the tree. Manufactured boards rearrange it — to gain stability, width or economy, and to lose some of the character.

Specimen A · Solid wood

Hardwoods & Softwoods

Structure
Natural grain and growth rings, running the length of the board.
Behaviour
Moves across its width as humidity changes; far less along its length.
The two groups
Hardwoods come from broad-leaved trees (oak, walnut, maple); softwoods from conifers (pine, fir, cedar). The names describe the tree, not the hardness — balsa is a hardwood.
  • 01Black Walnut
  • 02White Oak
  • 03Hard Maple
  • 04Cherry
  • 05White Ash
  • 06Sapele
  • 07Eastern White Pine

Specimens B–F · Manufactured boards

  1. Plywood

    Thin veneers glued with the grain of each layer crossing the next.

    Stable in width and length; edges show the plies.

    Cases, cabinet backs, drawer bottoms, jigs

  2. MDF

    Wood fibres pressed with resin into a dense, uniform board.

    No grain; very flat and paints well; edges and screws need care; swells if wet.

    Painted panels, doors, templates

  3. Particleboard

    Wood particles and binder, finer at the faces, coarser in the core.

    Economical and flat; weaker in screws and along edges than plywood.

    Laminated cabinet boxes, shelving cores

  4. Veneer

    A thin sheet of real wood, laid over a stable core.

    Solid-wood appearance without solid-wood movement across a wide panel.

    Figured panels, tabletops, doors

  5. Engineered panels

    Strands, flakes or veneers bonded in designed layers — OSB, LVL and similar.

    Engineered for strength or stability rather than appearance.

    Structural and utility work, cores

Understanding Grain

Every Board Has a Direction.

Where a board came from in the log sets its figure and how it moves. Read the end grain before you choose a board for a part.

Plate G-1 · The faces of a board

Long grain
Fibres running the length of the board. Strong, glues well, and moves very little along its length.
Face grain
The wide surface of the board — where figure shows and most finishing happens.
Edge grain
The narrow long surface. On quartersawn stock this becomes the wide face.
End grain
The cut ends, showing the growth rings. Absorbs finish and glue quickly and glues poorly to itself.

Plate G-2 · Three ways through a log

  1. Flatsawn

    Rings meet the face at a low angle

  2. Quartersawn

    Rings near-perpendicular to the face (roughly 60–90°)

  3. Riftsawn

    Rings at roughly 30–60° to the face

Appearance and movement of flatsawn, quartersawn and riftsawn boards
CutAppearanceMovement
FlatsawnCathedral figure on the face; the most common and economical cut.Moves most across its width and is more prone to cupping.
QuartersawnStraight stripes; ray fleck in oak and sycamore.Moves less in width and cups less; yields fewer boards per log.
RiftsawnStraight grain on both face and edge — prized for legs.Stable in width; the most wasteful cut to produce.

Wood Movement

Wood Moves Across the Grain, Not Along It.

As the air grows more humid, wood takes on moisture and swells; as it dries, it shrinks. The change is not equal in every direction.

Movement directions in a board
Tangential
Along the growth rings. The largest — for most species roughly 1.5 to 2 times radial.
Radial
Across the rings, from pith to bark. Smaller — why quartersawn boards stay steadier in width.
Longitudinal
Along the length. Usually negligible in normal straight-grained wood.
Panels floatA solid panel sits in a groove with room to move and no glue, so it cannot split itself or push the frame apart.
Tops are held, not trappedButtons, metal clips and slotted screw holes hold a top down while letting it move across its width.
  • Wide boards move more. Movement scales with width — a 24″ panel moves about twice as much as a 12″ one.
  • Breadboard ends keep a top flat but must be pinned to let the top slide beneath them.

Moisture Content

Dry Enough for Where It Will Live.

Definition

MC % = (weight − oven-dry weight) ÷ oven-dry weight × 100

Moisture content · typical ranges, not guarantees · drying runs right to left
  1. STAGE 1

    Green

    Freshly sawn. Cell walls are saturated and the cells may still hold free water; moisture content can exceed 100% in some species.

  2. STAGE 2

    Fibre saturation

    Free water is gone but cell walls are still saturated — commonly quoted around 25–30%. Shrinkage begins below this point.

  3. STAGE 3

    Air-dried

    Stacked and stickered outdoors, lumber typically settles somewhere around 12–15%, depending on the climate.

  4. STAGE 4

    Kiln-dried

    Furniture hardwood is commonly dried to about 6–8% so it starts close to indoor conditions.

  5. STAGE 5

    Equilibrium

    In use, wood settles to the humidity around it. In heated interiors that is often around 6–9%, varying by region and season.

Let stock acclimate

Bring lumber into the shop and leave it stickered for days to weeks before final milling, so it can settle to your conditions.

Match the parts

Parts at different moisture contents move differently after assembly — a common cause of cracked panels and open joints.

Mill in stages

Removing wood releases stress and exposes wetter core fibres. Rough-cut oversize, let it rest, then mill to final size.

Species Reference

Seven specimens, catalogued.

Each species behaves in its own way at the saw, the plane and the finishing bench. None is better — each suits different work.

  1. Black Walnut

    Juglans nigra

    Colour
    Chocolate to purple-brown heartwood; pale sapwood
    Grain
    Usually straight, sometimes wavy; medium texture
    Working
    Machines and carves cleanly; sharp tools needed on figured grain
    Finishing
    Oil deepens the colour; pale sapwood contrasts strongly
    Typical uses
    Fine furniture, tabletops, turnings

    Janka1,010 lbf

  2. White Oak

    Quercus alba

    Colour
    Light to medium brown
    Grain
    Ring-porous and open; ray fleck when quartersawn
    Working
    Works well; heavy and hard on edges
    Finishing
    Takes stain evenly; open pores show unless filled
    Typical uses
    Furniture, flooring, exterior and boat work

    Janka1,360 lbf

  3. Hard Maple

    Acer saccharum

    Colour
    Creamy white sapwood; heartwood darker
    Grain
    Fine and even; occasionally curly or birdseye
    Working
    Dense; burns with dull cutters; figure tears out
    Finishing
    Prone to blotching with stain; clear finishes suit it
    Typical uses
    Workbenches, cutting boards, flooring

    Janka1,450 lbf

  4. Cherry

    Prunus serotina

    Colour
    Pinkish-brown, darkening markedly with light
    Grain
    Fine, straight grain; smooth texture
    Working
    Machines well; burns easily on a slow feed
    Finishing
    Can blotch with stain; often left to darken naturally
    Typical uses
    Furniture, cabinets, casework

    Janka950 lbf

  5. White Ash

    Fraxinus americana

    Colour
    Light, creamy to pale brown
    Grain
    Ring-porous, bold and straight
    Working
    Works well; steam-bends well
    Finishing
    Stains evenly; pores show through thin finishes
    Typical uses
    Tool handles, chairs, bent parts

    Janka1,320 lbf

  6. Sapele

    Entandrophragma cylindricum

    Colour
    Reddish-brown
    Grain
    Interlocked; ribbon figure when quartersawn
    Working
    Interlocked grain tears out in planing; use a high angle or scraper
    Finishing
    Finishes well; ribbon figure shifts in the light
    Typical uses
    Furniture, doors, instrument parts

    Janka1,410 lbf

  7. Eastern White Pine

    Pinus strobus

    Colour
    Pale cream to light brown; knots common
    Grain
    Straight, even texture
    Working
    Soft and easy to cut; dents readily
    Finishing
    Can blotch with stain; takes paint well
    Typical uses
    Paint-grade work, trim, country furniture

    Janka380 lbf

  8. Reading the plates

    Janka hardness is the force needed to press a 0.444″ steel ball halfway into the wood. Higher resists dents; it says nothing about strength or beauty.

    Values are published averages. Individual boards vary with growth, density and moisture.

    Browse all wood species
Janka: USDA Wood Handbook averages (sapele: commonly published value). Shrinkage: green to oven-dry, % of green dimension.
SpeciesJanka (lbf)Radial %Tangential %T ÷ R
Black Walnut1,0105.57.81.4
White Oak1,3605.610.51.9
Hard Maple1,4504.89.92.1
Cherry9503.77.11.9
White Ash1,3204.97.81.6
Sapele1,4104.67.41.6
Eastern White Pine3802.16.12.9

How Lumber Is Sold

Rough, Surfaced and Nominal.

Hardwood is usually sold rough or partly surfaced, by thickness in quarters of an inch and by the board foot. Know what the label means before you plan your parts.

  1. STEP 1RGH

    Rough

    Straight from the sawmill and kiln. Full nominal thickness, saw marks, often cupped.

  2. STEP 2S2S

    Surfaced two sides

    Both faces planed; edges left rough for you to joint.

  3. STEP 3S3S

    Surfaced three sides

    Faces planed and one edge straightened.

  4. STEP 4S4S

    Surfaced four sides

    Faces and both edges finished — ready to cut to length.

End views. Brass lines mark planed surfaces; the dashed outline is the original rough size.

Hardwood thickness · the quarter system
QuartersRough thicknessTypical surfaced (S2S)
4/41″13/16″
5/41¼″1 1/16″
6/41½″1 5/16″
8/42″1 3/4″

Surfaced thicknesses are common trade standards; individual suppliers vary.

Softwood dimensional lumber · nominal vs actual
NominalActual (dry, surfaced)
1 × 6¾ × 5½″
2 × 41½ × 3½″
2 × 61½ × 5½″

The board foot

One board foot is 144 cubic inches — 1″ × 12″ × 12″. Hardwood is usually priced by the board foot, measured at its rough thickness.

Work out board feet

Defects & Board Selection

Read the Board Before You Buy It.

Sight down every board. Most faults cost yield rather than ruin a board — the question is how much of it you can use for your parts.

Inspection sheet · rough lumber
  1. I-01

    Cup

    Look for
    Curved across the width, seen from the end.
    Effect on the work
    Flattening costs thickness; a narrow board or ripping it in two loses less.
  2. I-02

    Bow

    Look for
    Curved along the length, on the face.
    Effect on the work
    Cutting parts shorter removes much of it; long parts lose thickness.
  3. I-03

    Crook

    Look for
    Curved along the length, on the edge.
    Effect on the work
    Rip a straight line off it; the width you lose depends on the curve.
  4. I-04

    Twist

    Look for
    Corners out of plane — the board rocks on a flat surface.
    Effect on the work
    Hard to remove without losing a lot of thickness; check with winding sticks.
  5. I-05

    Checks & end splits

    Look for
    Cracks along the grain, often at the ends, from drying.
    Effect on the work
    Usually trimmed off the ends; allow extra length when buying.
  6. I-06

    Knots

    Look for
    Tight (sound) or loose (falling out); both disturb the grain.
    Effect on the work
    Tight knots can be character; loose ones weaken the part and may drop out.
  7. I-07

    Sapwood

    Look for
    Paler outer wood alongside the darker heartwood.
    Effect on the work
    A colour question more than a defect — plan where it will show.
  8. I-08

    Reversing grain

    Look for
    Grain that changes direction along the face.
    Effect on the work
    Tears out when planed; take light cuts, use a high angle or scraper.

This is a practical checklist, not a formal lumber grade. Hardwood grading rules measure clear-cutting yield from a board and are published by grading associations.

Solid Wood & Plywood

Two Materials, Two Behaviours.

Many good pieces use both: solid wood where it shows and is shaped, plywood where width and stability matter most.

Solid woodGrowth rings run through the section; the board moves across its width.
PlywoodEach ply's grain crosses the next, so the layers restrain one another.
Solid wood compared with plywood on eight practical points
AspectSolid woodPlywood
MovementMoves across its width with humidity; must be allowed forVery little movement in width or length
StabilityCan cup, bow or twist as it dries or is milledStays flat when stored and supported properly
EdgesSame wood all the way through; edges can be shapedPlies show; usually edge-banded or hidden
Strength directionStrong along the grain, weaker across itSimilar strength in both panel directions
Large panelsGlued up from several boardsAvailable in full sheets, commonly 4 × 8 ft
JoinerySuits mortises, tenons, dovetails and shaped partsSuits dadoes, rabbets, biscuits and screws; weak in end-grain-style joints
FinishingTakes oils and stains through its depth; can be repaired by sandingThin face veneer — sand lightly and avoid cutting through
Typical useFrames, legs, tabletops, exposed joineryCases, backs, drawer bottoms, shop fixtures

Planning a sheet-goods project? Estimate the number of sheets

Material → Project

Start From What the Piece Needs.

A starting point, not a rule. Budget, tools, appearance and where the piece will live all change the answer.

  1. If the work needs A wide, stable panel

    Plywood or a veneered engineered panel

    Cross-laminated layers barely move in width, so the panel can be fixed rigidly.

  2. If the work needs Exposed furniture joinery

    Solid hardwood

    Joints can be cut, shaped and shown; the wood looks the same through its thickness.

  3. If the work needs Painted cabinetry

    MDF or paint-grade plywood

    Smooth, grainless faces take paint evenly; solid wood grain can telegraph through paint.

  4. If the work needs Outdoor use

    Species, finish and detailing together

    Decay-resistant heartwood, a maintained finish and joints that shed water all matter — no single choice is enough.

  5. If the work needs Bending or shaping

    Straight-grained solid wood suited to the method

    Steam bending favours straight-grained species such as ash and white oak; bent laminations use thin strips.

From the Specimen Drawer

Read the Grain.Respect the Material.

Choose the board for the part, let it settle before you mill it, and leave it room to move. The joinery and the finish will thank you.