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Homemade Woodworking Tools: Winding Sticks and a Wedge-Locked Marking Gauge

The tools most worth making yourself are the simple hand tools whose accuracy you can check: a pair of winding sticks, which show whether a board is twisted, and a marking gauge, which scribes a line parallel to an edge. This page builds both from offcuts of straight hardwood. It does not offer home-built power machines — table saws, lathes, band saws, planers — and it leaves the jigs BenchRoot has already published on their own pages. Both tools are BenchRoot designs, drawn and checked, not built for this page.

Published
Reading time
4 min
Level
Beginner
Plate —Left, a pair of winding sticks, 18 × 1-1/2 × 3/4 in, one light wood and one dark: set across a board near each end, their top edges line up if the board is not twisted. Right, the marking gauge from the side: a 3/4 × 3/4 × 8 in beam through a 1 × 2-1/2 × 3 in head, locked by a wedge beside it, with a pin near the beam's end.

At a glance

Finished dimensions

Overall sizes

Winding sticks
Two, each 18 × 1-1/2 × 3/4 in
Gauge beam
3/4 × 3/4 × 8 in
Gauge head
1 × 2-1/2 × 3 in, with a 3/4 in square mortise

Materials

Materials
ItemQuantityNote
Straight-grained, dry hardwood offcuts in two contrasting coloursAbout 3 ft of 3/4 × 1-1/2 in, and a 1 × 2-1/2 × 3 in blockMaple and walnut, for example
Small finishing nail1The gauge's pin

Cut list

Cut list
PartQtyDimensionsMaterial
Winding stick, light wood13/4 × 1-1/2 × 18 inStraight-grained hardwood
Winding stick, dark wood13/4 × 1-1/2 × 18 inStraight-grained hardwood
Gauge beam13/4 × 3/4 × 8 inHardwood
Gauge head11 × 2-1/2 × 3 inHardwood
Gauge wedge13/4 in wide × 3 in long, tapering from 5/16 to 3/16 in thickHardwood

Tools

  • Hand plane
  • Saw
  • Chisels and a mallet
  • Drill
  • File
  • Square and straightedge

What this page builds, and what it does not

Homemade woodworking tools can mean anything from a pencil gauge to a table saw. BenchRoot publishes plans only for hand-operated tools and shop aids, not for home-built power machines: a machine's guards, wiring and moving parts are engineered by its maker and checked against standards no shop drawing can reproduce. Many shop-made jigs are already published on their own pages: the crosscut sled, box joint jigs, the dado guide and flattening sled, the saw track, the circle jig, the bench hook and miter box and the dovetail marker. This page adds two tools that are not: winding sticks and a marking gauge.

Winding sticks

Winding sticks are two identical straight sticks with parallel edges, longer than the board is wide. Set across a board near each end, they exaggerate any twist: sight across their top edges, and if the board is flat the edges line up; if it is twisted, one stick tilts against the other. Making one light and one dark lets the eye find both edges. How they are used while planing is shown in using a hand plane.

Making the winding sticks

  1. Choose the stock

    Pick straight-grained, dry offcuts of two contrasting woods and plane them to 3/4 × 1-1/2 in. Measure rather than assume their size; dressed stock varies.

  2. Cut to length

    Cut both to 18 in, square at the ends.

  3. Joint the top edges

    Plane each stick's top edge straight, checking against a straightedge until no light shows along it.

  4. Make the edges parallel

    Mark the width from the top edge with a gauge and plane the bottom edge to the line, so each stick is the same width along its length.

  5. Check them against each other

    Stand the sticks on a flat surface side by side and sight across both top edges; then turn one end for end and sight again. If the edges line up both ways, the sticks are a matched pair. If not, replane the high edge.

  6. Ease the arrises

    Chamfer the sharp corners lightly, leaving the top edges themselves crisp.

A wedge-locked marking gauge

A marking gauge scribes a line a set distance from an edge. This one has a 3/4 in square beam that slides through a mortise in a 1 × 2-1/2 × 3 in head; a tapered wedge in a slot beside the beam locks it; a pin near the beam's end does the marking. A pin suits lines along the grain; across the grain it tears the fibres, which is where a cutting gauge's knife or a wheel gauge slices them cleanly instead. Marking gauges compares the types.

Making the gauge

  1. Make the beam

    Plane a straight-grained piece to 3/4 × 3/4 × 8 in, square in section, so it slides evenly.

  2. Cut the mortise

    In the head, mark a 3/4 in square through-mortise centred side to side, its top 3/4 in below the head's top, running through the 1 in thickness. Drill out most of the waste and pare to the lines until the beam slides through with no play.

  3. Cut the wedge slot

    Beside the mortise, cut a slot 5/16 in wide and 3/4 in long down through the head so it opens into the mortise by about 1/16 in. Pare its outer face to the wedge's taper so the wedge bears flat.

  4. Make the wedge

    Cut a wedge 3/4 in wide and 3 in long, tapering from 5/16 to 3/16 in thick. Pushed down the slot, it presses on the beam's side and locks it.

  5. Fit the pin

    Drill a small pilot hole through the beam 3/4 in from one end and drive a small finishing nail through it. Cut it off and file it to a point that projects about 1/16 in.

  6. Test it

    Set a distance, lock the wedge, and scribe a line along the grain of an offcut from a straight edge; the line should be parallel and the setting should not creep.

Safety— Small parts and sharp points

Clamp small parts or hold them in a vise while sawing, paring and drilling, as OSHA's tool booklet advises, and keep chisels sharp. Cover the gauge's pin when it is stored. See woodworking safety rules.

Before trusting the tools

  • Winding sticks' top edges straight
  • Edges line up when one stick is turned end for end
  • Gauge beam slides without play and locks with the wedge
  • Pin sharp and projecting about 1/16 in
  • A test line along the grain is parallel to the edge

A mallet to go with the chisels is in mallet plans; these tools belong to the shop projects family.

Sources

Both tools are BenchRoot designs; their dimensions are design choices. They were drawn and checked but not built for this page. Winding sticks show twist by comparison and a marking gauge repeats a distance; neither measures or certifies an absolute dimension, and neither replaces a square or rule checked against a known reference. Home-built power machines are outside BenchRoot's plans.

  1. 1.

    Frank Strazza. Marking Gauge versus Cutting Gauge. Heritage School of Woodworking, 2013.

    Used for: A pin gauge for marking with the grain, which tears fibres across it; a single-bevel knife in a cutting gauge severing cross-grain fibres cleanly, with the bevel facing the waste side.

  2. 2.

    Veritas Standard Wheel Marking Gauge. Veritas Tools Inc..

    Used for: A hardened wheel slicing fibres rather than tearing them, leaving a cleaner line across the grain than a pin.

  3. 3.

    Hand and Power Tools (OSHA 3080). Occupational Safety and Health Administration, 2002.

    Used for: Securing work with clamps or a vise so both hands are free for the tool, and keeping edge tools sharp.

  4. 4.

    NIST Handbook 130 (2026), IV.B Uniform Regulation for the Method of Sale of Commodities. National Institute of Standards and Technology, 2026.

    Used for: Lumber sold by nominal size and dressed smaller, so stock is measured rather than assumed.

About this project

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