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Guide · Shop projects and jigs

Intarsia Projects: A Compass Tile and a Mountain Panel

Two intarsia projects designed for BenchRoot, each drawn to scale with every piece numbered and dimensioned. The compass tile is a first project: eight right triangles in two woods, all outside cuts. The mountain panel adds an inside cut for the sun and pieces of different thicknesses for depth. Both keep the grain running one way in every piece and sit on a thin plywood backer set in from the edge. They are BenchRoot designs, drawn and checked, not built for this page, and the drawings are not printable or full-size patterns — you lay each piece out from the dimensions given.

Published
Reading time
5 min
Level
Intermediate
Plate —The mountain panel, 8 × 6 in, to scale. Five pieces: 1 sky, 2 sun, 3 back mountain, 4 front mountain, 5 ground. The ground is 1-1/2 in deep; both mountains rise at 45°, the back one to an apex 3 in from the left and 4 in up, the front one to an apex 5-3/4 in across and 3-3/4 in up, and they cross at 4-1/2 in across and 2-1/2 in up. The sun is a 1-1/2 in disc centred 6-1/2 in across and 4-3/4 in up, cut into the sky as an inside cut. Every piece's grain runs along the 8 in length.

What each project needs

The two projects compared
ProjectSizePiecesCutsPlanning estimate
Compass tile6 × 6 in8Straight outside cuts onlyAbout 3 hours, plus glue and finish drying
Mountain panel8 × 6 in5Outside cuts, angles and one inside cutAbout 5 hours, plus glue and finish drying

Planning estimates, not timings. Both need a scroll saw, a drill for one pilot hole, sanding tools, wood glue and a clear finish of your choice. How intarsia works is explained in intarsia; the saw in the scroll saw guide.

Both projects use a #5 reverse-tooth scroll saw blade, such as Olson's FR44602, which Olson lists for close-radius fretwork and general purpose; any blade your saw takes and its maker rates for this stock will do. Lay each piece out yourself from the dimensions with a rule, square and compass: the drawings are to scale on screen but are not a printable pattern. Cut each piece just outside its line and sand it to fit its neighbours, so the fit does not depend on the blade's kerf. Keep the grain arrow of every piece pointing the same way, as drawn: the Wood Handbook explains that wood moves across its grain as its moisture changes, and pieces whose grain agrees move together. Glue does not stop that movement; the wood movement calculator estimates it.

Project 1: a compass tile

Fig. 1 —The compass tile, 6 in square, to scale. Lines from the centre to each corner and to each edge's midpoint divide it into eight right triangles with 3 in legs, numbered 1 to 8 around the square; odd numbers in a light wood, even in a dark. Every piece is 3/4 in thick with its grain vertical, on a backer of plywood sold as 1/4 in, 5-3/4 in square, set in 1/8 in all round.
Compass tile cut list
PartQtySizeMaterial
Triangles 1, 3, 5, 74Right triangles, legs 3 in, 3/4 in thick, grain verticalA light wood
Triangles 2, 4, 6, 84Right triangles, legs 3 in, 3/4 in thick, grain verticalA dark wood
Backer15-3/4 × 5-3/4 inPlywood sold as 1/4 in

Each triangle fills one eighth of the 36 sq in tile: 4.5 sq in. Its hypotenuse is 3√2, about 4-1/4 in. Draw each triangle on a blank about 3-1/4 in square with its grain arrow, so all eight agree once assembled.

Making the compass tile

  1. Lay out

    On each blank, draw a right triangle with 3 in legs and mark which way the grain must run once the piece is in its place on the tile — vertical, as drawn.

  2. Cut

    Cut each triangle just outside its lines.

  3. Fit

    Arrange the eight on a flat board in their numbered places and sand edges, a little at a time, until neighbours meet along their whole length and the centre points meet.

  4. Glue to the backer

    Glue the pieces to the backer, set in 1/8 in from the tile's edge all round, with wood glue used as its maker directs; see the wood glue guide.

  5. Ease and finish

    Ease the outer edges, sand the face, and apply a clear finish as its maker directs; see how to sand wood and the wood finish guide.

Project 2: a mountain panel

Mountain panel pieces
PieceShape and position (from the bottom left, in inches)Finished thicknessBlank
1 SkyThe panel above the ground, less the mountains and the sun1/2 in8-1/2 × 5 in, a light wood
2 SunDisc 1-1/2 in across, centred at (6-1/2, 4-3/4)3/4 in2 × 2 in, a mid-tone wood
3 Back mountainCorners (1/2, 1-1/2), (3-1/2, 1-1/2), (4-1/2, 2-1/2), (3, 4)5/8 in4-1/2 × 3 in, a dark wood
4 Front mountainTriangle (3-1/2, 1-1/2), (8, 1-1/2), (5-3/4, 3-3/4)3/4 in5 × 2-3/4 in, a darker wood
5 GroundBand 8 in long, 1-1/2 in deep3/4 in8-1/2 × 2 in, a mid-tone wood
Backer7-3/4 × 5-3/4 in, set in 1/8 in all roundPlywood sold as 1/4 in—

Every mountain side rises at 45°, so no piece has a corner sharper than 45°. The sun's edge stays 1/2 in clear of the front mountain's peak. Thicknesses are BenchRoot's design choice for depth: start the sky from stock already 1/2 in thick and the back mountain from 5/8 in stock, rather than thinning small pieces. APA notes that plywood is labelled by actual thickness, so measure the backer.

Making the mountain panel

  1. Lay out

    Draw each piece on its blank from the coordinates in the table, with the grain running along the 8 in length of the panel in every piece. On the sky blank draw the whole sky outline and the sun's circle.

  2. Cut the sun's opening

    Drill a pilot hole inside the sun's circle on the sky blank — Olson lists 3/64 in for its FR44602 — and cut the circle out as an inside cut, as described in how to use a scroll saw.

  3. Cut the other pieces

    Cut the sky's outline, the two mountains, the ground and the sun disc, each just outside its line.

  4. Fit

    Lay the ground along a straight edge, then fit the front mountain, the back mountain and the sky in turn, sanding edges until they meet; sand the sun until it drops into its opening.

  5. Glue and finish

    Glue the pieces to the backer, set in 1/8 in all round, with wood glue used as its maker directs. Ease the exposed edges so the thicker pieces stand proud, then finish as its maker directs.

Safety— Pieces large enough to hold

Both designs avoid small fragments, but cut each piece while it is still on a blank big enough to hold, keep the hold-down or guard foot on the work and keep fingers out of the blade's path. Sanding many pieces makes fine dust; see dust collection, woodworking safety equipment and woodworking safety rules.

Before gluing up

  • Every piece cut outside its line and sanded to fit
  • Grain of every piece running the same way
  • Pieces dry-fitted in their numbered places
  • Backer cut and set in 1/8 in all round
  • Glue and finish chosen and their instructions read

Sources

Both projects are BenchRoot designs; every dimension is on the drawings or in the tables, and the thicknesses, backer and blade are design choices, not standards. They were drawn and checked but not built for this page. The drawings are not scaled for printing; there is no download. Build times are planning estimates, not timings.

  1. 1.

    John Tucker. Intarsia: open-ended, no-rules woodworking. Australian Wood Review, 2024.

    Used for: One maker's workflow: woods chosen by colour and grain, pieces cut on a scroll saw, then shaped and sanded until they fit, and glued to a thin backing.

  2. 2.

    Scroll Saw Blade Selection Chart. Olson Saw Company, 2020.

    Used for: The #5 reverse-tooth FR44602 listed for close-radius fretwork and general purpose with a 3/64 in pilot hole; lower blade numbers for thinner stock and tighter radii, higher for thicker stock.

  3. 3.

    DW788 20" (508 mm) Heavy Duty Variable Speed Scroll Saw instruction manual. DEWALT.

    Used for: An inside cut made by drilling a pilot hole and threading the blade through it; a 2 in maximum thickness for that saw.

  4. 4.

    Chapter 4: Moisture Relations and Physical Properties of Wood. USDA Forest Service, Forest Products Laboratory — Wood Handbook, FPL-GTR-282, 2021.

    Used for: Shrinking and swelling across the grain as moisture changes below fiber saturation, with little change along the grain.

  5. 5.

    Panel Thickness Tolerances and Labeling (Technical Topic TT-054). APA — The Engineered Wood Association, 2013.

    Used for: Panels labelled by actual thickness rather than nominal alone, so plywood sold as 1/4 in may be thinner.

About this guide

Written by BenchRoot Editorial. How BenchRoot sources, checks and corrects its pages is set out in the Editorial Policy. If something here is wrong or unclear, the contact page explains how to tell us.

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