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Guide · Joinery tools and jigs

Table Saw Sleds: Crosscut Sled Design and Squaring

A crosscut sled is a platform that rides in the miter slots and carries the work past the blade, held against a fence square to the cut. It does what a miter gauge does with more support — within limits its makers spell out, and only as square as its fence is set.

Published
Reading time
5 min
Level
Intermediate
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Plate —A crosscut sled from above. Runners under the base ride in the miter slots; the fence nearest the operator references the work and is set square to the kerf; a far fence holds the base together across the kerf; a hold-down clamps the work.

Sled, miter gauge and fence

Three guides move work past the blade, and each has one job. Mixing them — guiding a crosscut with the fence and a gauge or sled together — traps the cut-off piece against the blade, which is why saw makers forbid it.

Which guide does what
GuideRides in or onReferences the work byUsed for
Rip fenceThe saw's railsThe work's edge against the fenceRip cuts, along the grain
Miter gaugeOne miter slotThe work held against the gauge faceCrosscuts and miters
Crosscut sledOne or both miter slotsThe work carried on the base, against the sled's fenceCrosscuts, especially of wide boards and small parts

SawStop and DEWALT both direct crosscuts to the miter gauge and rips to the fence, with the fence kept out of contact with the work during a crosscut; a sled replaces the gauge, not the fence.

The limits sled makers set

POWERTEC's manual for its 71403 sled is a useful example of how specific those limits are. Its sled is for cabinet and full-size contractor saws with a standard 3/8 in deep × 3/4 in wide miter slot — not for portable saws — and needs at least 4-1/4 in between the blade and the slot so the fence clears the blade.

  • No rip fence while the sled is in use.
  • No dado blades with this sled, and no compound cuts.
  • Outfeed support must not obstruct the sled's miter bar.
  • Fence and hold-down positioned so they cannot touch the blade, and every knob and the hold-down tightened before cutting.
  • Blade height as low as possible for the cut, as defined by the saw's own manual.
  • Pieces too short to be secured with the hold-down are not cut on the sled.
  • A cracked part means the sled is taken out of use immediately.

Blade height is one point where sources differ: POWERTEC says as low as possible, defined by the saw's manual, while SawStop's and DEWALT's saw manuals set the blade about 1/8 in above the work. Follow your saw's manual and your sled's together; where they conflict, ask the makers rather than splitting the difference.

Equipment notePaid link

Table saw crosscut sled

POWERTEC 71403

POWERTEC's 71403, the sled this section quotes: made for cabinet and full-size contractor saws with 3/8 × 3/4 in slots, and at least 4-1/4 in from blade to slot.

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Runners

A sled is only as accurate as its runners' fit in the slots. INCRA gives the common slot as 3/4 in wide and 3/8 in deep, with or without a 15/16 in T-slot below, and makes its miter bar adjustable for slots from 0.740 to 0.765 in wide — a reminder that real slots vary. POWERTEC's aluminium bar is 3/4 × 3/8 in with nylon adjustment screws, and the manual's test is simple: the bar must slide freely forward and back without side-to-side play. Never force a sled that does not slide freely. Freud's sled plan says the same of wooden runners: suitable for your slots, sliding freely, with no sideways movement.

Squaring the fence

POWERTEC squares its sled's fence with a combination square against the blade, touching only the plate — not the teeth, which are wider. That sets the fence close. To measure what is left, the five-cut check multiplies the error until it can be read.

Fig. 1 —The five-cut check. Each edge of a board is cut in turn against the fence; the fifth cut takes a strip off the first edge. The strip's difference in width from one end to the other is four times the fence's error.

Running the five-cut check

  1. Take a square-ish board

    Any flat board with four straight edges, wide enough to sit securely on the sled. You will number the edges in the order you cut them.

  2. Cut 1

    Hold any edge against the fence and trim the edge next to it. Mark the trimmed edge 1.

  3. Cuts 2 to 4

    Turn the board a quarter so edge 1 is against the fence and trim the next edge, marking it 2. Keep turning the same way: edge 2 against the fence to cut edge 3, edge 3 to cut edge 4.

  4. Cut 5

    Turn once more, so edge 4 is against the fence, and take a narrow strip off edge 1.

  5. Measure the strip

    Measure its width at both ends, the same distance in from each end; call them A and B, and note the distance L between the two points.

  6. Work out the error

    Any fence error is added once at each turn, so A − B is about four times the error of a single cut over the length L.

Five-cut error

error per cut ≈ (A − B) ÷ 4

angle ≈ (A − B) ÷ (4 × L) radians

A, B
strip width at its two ends (in)
L
distance between the two measurements (in)

Worked example with made-up readings: A = 0.020 in, B = 0.004 in over L = 20 in gives (0.016) ÷ 4 = 0.004 in per 20 in of cut, an angle of 0.0002 rad, about 0.01°. Move the fence by that amount at the end of its length, and recheck.

Building one

Freud's published plan for a dado sled shows the parts any shop-made sled needs: a 1/2 in plywood base, hardwood runners sized to the saw's slots, a main fence, support blocks and a polycarbonate safety guard. Freud presents it as one of many ways to build a sled. Whatever the design, the runners go on first, fitted to slide freely without play; the base is set parallel to and centred over them; and the fence is squared to the kerf the saw cuts in the base. A complete shop-made build is in the crosscut sled plans; if a manufactured sled suits the saw better, choosing a sled compares the options.

Before the first cut on a sled

  • The sled is made for your saw type and slot size
  • The runners slide freely without side play
  • The rip fence is off the saw or well clear of the sled
  • The fence and any hold-down cannot reach the blade
  • The work is long enough to clamp, and is held against the fence
  • The blade height follows your saw's and sled's manuals
  • Outfeed support is clear of the runners

Sources

The limits quoted are POWERTEC's for its own sled and saws; other sleds give their own. The five-cut check is shown as geometry for checking any fence, not as a maker's procedure or tolerance.

  1. 1.

    Owner's Manual, Model No. 71403 Table Saw Crosscut Sled. POWERTEC.

    Used for: POWERTEC's limits for its 71403 sled: cabinet and full-size contractor saws with a standard 3/8 in deep × 3/4 in wide slot, not portable saws; at least 4-1/4 in from blade to slot; out-feed support clear of the miter bar; no rip fence and no dado blades with the sled; no compound cuts; fence and hold-down clear of the blade; the blade as low as the saw's manual allows; a bar that slides freely without side play; no pieces too short for the hold-down; stopping use if a part cracks; squaring the fence with a combination square on the blade plate.

  2. 2.

    INCRA Miter 1000SE. INCRA.

    Used for: Slot dimensions of 3/4 in wide and 3/8 in deep, with or without a 15/16 in T-slot, and a bar adjustable for slots 0.740 to 0.765 in wide.

  3. 3.

    Creating a Dado Sled — safety instructions. Freud Tools.

    Used for: Freud's sled plan: runners sized to the saw's slots that slide freely without sideways movement; a 1/2 in plywood base; the base set parallel to and centred over the runners.

  4. 4.

    Owner's Manual, 10" Professional Cabinet Saw, Model PCS31230. SawStop.

    Used for: The miter gauge for crosscuts and the rip fence for rips; the rip fence kept out of contact with the work when crosscutting; blade height about 1/8 in above the work.

  5. 5.

    DWE7491 10" (254 mm) Job Site Table Saw, Instruction Manual. DEWALT.

    Used for: Blade height about 1/8 in above the work; never using the fence as a length stop when crosscutting.

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