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Coffee Table Plans: A Leg-and-Apron Coffee Table and Side Table

A leg-and-apron coffee table is the furniture project that teaches the most for its size: square legs, aprons joined with mortises and tenons, and a solid top held so it can swell and shrink across its width. This plan gives a 42 × 22 × 17 in coffee table and, with the same joinery, a 22 in square side table, with a measured drawing, cut list and the order of work. It is also the map to every other furniture plan on BenchRoot. The design was drawn and checked, not built for this page, and it carries no load rating.

Published
Reading time
5 min
Level
Intermediate
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Plate —The coffee table from the front and the end: a 3/4 in top 42 × 22 in, four 1-3/4 in square legs set 1-1/2 in in from every edge, and 3-1/2 in aprons flush with the legs' outside faces, 17 in high overall. The side table uses the same parts at 22 × 22 × 22 in.

At a glance

Finished dimensions

Overall sizes

Coffee table
42 × 22 × 17 in high
Side table
22 × 22 × 22 in high
Legs, outside
39 × 19 in (coffee table); 19 × 19 in (side table)
Top overhang
1-1/2 in all round

Materials

Materials
ItemQuantityNote
Hardwood, surfacedAbout 8-1/2 board feet of finished parts (coffee table)Buy more for waste and defects; final sizes below
Wood glue1 bottleFor the leg-and-apron joints only, never the top
Screws for the buttons8Short enough not to come through the top

Cut list

Cut list
PartQtyDimensionsMaterial
Coffee table: leg41-3/4 × 1-3/4 × 16-1/4 inHardwood
Coffee table: long apron23/4 × 3-1/2 × 37-1/2 inHardwood; includes two 1 in tenons
Coffee table: short apron23/4 × 3-1/2 × 17-1/2 inHardwood; includes two 1 in tenons
Coffee table: top13/4 × 22 × 42 inHardwood, glued up from boards
Side table: leg41-3/4 × 1-3/4 × 21-1/4 inHardwood
Side table: apron43/4 × 3-1/2 × 17-1/2 inHardwood; includes two 1 in tenons
Side table: top13/4 × 22 × 22 inHardwood, glued up from boards
Button (each table)83/4 × 1-1/4 × 1-1/2 inHardwood offcuts

Tools

  • Table saw or track saw, jointer and planer, or stock bought surfaced
  • Mortising chisel or router for the mortises
  • Clamps long enough for the base
  • Drill/driver

The design

Four square legs, four aprons and a top: the base is a rigid frame, and the top sits on it. The legs stand 1-1/2 in in from every edge of the top, so the outside of the base is 39 × 19 in on the coffee table and 19 × 19 in on the side table. Aprons run flush with the legs' outside faces. The heights — 17 in for the coffee table, 22 in for the side table — are design choices; set them against the seating they will stand beside, and change only the leg length to do it.

All sizes are final, surfaced dimensions. A board sold as 1 in nominal is not 1 in thick; check what you can buy against the lumber dimensions chart, and plan rough stock with the board foot calculator and the cut list optimizer.

Joinery, and a top that can move

  • Mortise and tenon for the base. Each apron ends in a tenon 1/4 in thick, 2-3/4 in wide and 1 in long, with a 1/2 in shoulder at the top and 1/4 in at the bottom. The mortises are 1-1/16 in deep, 1/4 in from the leg's outside face. Two tenons meet inside each leg, so mitre their ends at 45° to clear each other. Why this joint, and how to cut it, is in mortise and tenon joints and choosing a wood joint.
  • Buttons for the top. A solid top swells and shrinks across its width as its moisture changes, and very little along its length (Forest Products Laboratory). Glue or rigid screws would fight that movement, so the top is held by wooden buttons: small blocks screwed to the top, with a tongue that hooks into a groove in the aprons and can slide.
  • The groove. Cut it 1/4 in wide and 3/8 in deep along the inside of every apron, its top edge 5/8 in below the apron's top. Buttons on the long aprons slide in and out of the groove as the top moves across its width; on the short aprons they slide along it. Estimate how far your top will move with the wood movement calculator and leave at least that much room.

Building the base

Legs and aprons

  1. Mill and cut the parts

    Bring legs and aprons to final thickness and width, then length, with the tenons included in the apron lengths. Mark each leg's position and its two inside faces.

  2. Cut the mortises

    Lay them out from each leg's top: 1/2 in down, 2-3/4 in long, 1/4 in wide, 1/4 in in from the outside face, 1-1/16 in deep, on the two inside faces.

  3. Cut the tenons

    Cut shoulders and cheeks to fit the mortises snugly, then mitre the tenon ends where they meet inside the leg. Cut the button groove on each apron before assembly.

  4. Dry-fit

    Assemble the base without glue and check it is square by measuring the diagonals; they should match.

  5. Glue up in stages

    Glue the two short sides first — a pair of legs and a short apron each — then join them with the long aprons. Check the diagonals again and leave it in clamps for the time the glue maker gives; see how to use wood glue and woodworking clamps.

Making and fitting the top

Top and buttons

  1. Glue up the top

    Joint the board edges straight, arrange them for grain and colour, and glue them into a panel slightly oversize. Flatten it, then cut it to 42 × 22 in (or 22 × 22 in).

  2. Make the buttons

    From a 3/4 in offcut, cut buttons 1-1/4 × 1-1/2 in with a tongue 1/4 in thick and 3/8 in long on one end, so the tongue sits a hair below the button's face and pulls the top down when screwed.

  3. Sand and finish

    Sand the base and top before attaching them — how to sand wood — and finish the underside of the top as well as the face, as applying a wood finish explains.

  4. Attach the top

    Lay the top face down, centre the base on it, hook two buttons into each apron's groove and screw them to the top. Leave the buttons on the long aprons short of the groove's bottom so the top can move.

Safety— At the machines, and in use

The cuts here are at the table saw, router and chisel; follow each machine's manual and woodworking safety rules, and table saw safety for rips and tenons. In use, a table is not a step: no load rating is claimed, and CPSC advises keeping things children might climb for off the tops of furniture.

Before glue-up

  • Every tenon fits its mortise without forcing
  • Tenon ends mitred where they meet inside the legs
  • Button grooves cut in all four aprons
  • Base square: diagonals equal on the dry fit
  • Clamps and glue ready for one side at a time

The furniture plans

Each plan below is one complete BenchRoot design with a measured drawing, cut list and steps. They share the same rules: final sizes stated, solid wood free to move, no load rating claimed.

More project plans

Looking for a larger collection of woodworking project plans?

Ted’s Woodworking is a digital plan library sold by a third party. BenchRoot did not create it and has not reviewed every plan in it, so check what it includes before you buy.

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Sources

Both tables are BenchRoot designs; every dimension is on the drawing and in the cut list, given as final surfaced sizes. Heights are design choices, not ergonomic standards. The design was drawn and its arithmetic checked; it was not built or tested for this page, and no load rating is claimed.

  1. 1.

    Chapter 4: Moisture Relations and Physical Properties of Wood. USDA Forest Service, Forest Products Laboratory — Wood Handbook, FPL-GTR-282, 2021.

    Used for: Wood shrinking and swelling across the grain with changes in moisture, tangentially about twice radially, and very little along the grain — the reason a solid top is held so it can move across its width.

  2. 2.

    AnchorIt.gov. U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission.

    Used for: Removing items that might tempt children to climb from the tops of furniture.

About this project

Written by BenchRoot Editorial. How BenchRoot sources, checks and corrects its pages is set out in the Editorial Policy. If something here is wrong or unclear, the contact page explains how to tell us.

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