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Table Plans: A Knock-Down Trestle Table

A trestle table carries its top on two T-shaped ends — a foot, a post and a cleat — joined by a single stretcher, instead of four legs and aprons. Bolt the stretcher in and the whole table comes apart into flat pieces. This plan is a 60 × 30 × 30 in trestle table with mortise-and-tenon trestles, a stretcher held with bolts and barrel nuts, and a top screwed through slotted holes so it can move, with a measured drawing, cut list and the order of work. It is a BenchRoot design, not built for this page, and no load rating is claimed.

Published
Reading time
3 min
Level
Intermediate
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Plate —The trestle table from the front and the end: a 1 in top 60 × 30 in on two trestles whose centres are 9 in in from the ends. Each trestle is a 3 in foot and a 2-1/2 in cleat, both 26 in long, joined by a 1-3/4 × 5 in post; a 1-3/4 × 4 in stretcher runs the 40-1/4 in between the posts.

At a glance

Finished dimensions

Overall sizes

Overall
60 × 30 × 30 in high
Trestle centres
9 in in from each end of the top
Between the posts
40-1/4 in
Foot and cleat length
26 in

Materials

Materials
ItemQuantityNote
Hardwood, surfacedAbout 21 board feet of finished partsBuy more for waste and defects
Bolts with barrel nuts2 setsHole sizes and positions from the hardware's instructions
Wood glue—Trestle joints only
Screws6Top to cleats

Cut list

Cut list
PartQtyDimensionsMaterial
Top11 × 30 × 60 inHardwood, glued up from boards
Foot21-3/4 × 3 × 26 inHardwood
Cleat21-3/4 × 2-1/2 × 26 inHardwood
Post21-3/4 × 5 × 26-1/2 inHardwood; includes two 1-1/2 in tenons
Stretcher11-3/4 × 4 × 42-1/4 inHardwood; includes two 1 in stub tenons

Tools

  • Jointer and planer, or stock bought surfaced
  • Mortising chisel or router
  • Drill with a guide for straight bolt holes
  • Clamps

The design

Each trestle is a foot and a cleat, both 26 in long, joined by a post. Heights add up to 30 in: a 3 in foot, 23-1/2 in of post between the joints, a 2-1/2 in cleat and the 1 in top. The trestles' centres are 9 in in from the ends of the top, so their posts are 40-1/4 in apart; a 1-3/4 × 4 in stretcher between them, its centre 10 in above the floor, keeps them upright along the table's length. Where a leg-and-apron table like the dining table is rigid because of its four glued joints, a trestle table depends on its trestle joints and that one stretcher.

Joinery and movement

  • Trestle joints. Each post has a tenon 5/8 in thick, 4 in wide and 1-1/2 in long at each end, glued into 1-9/16 in deep mortises in the foot and the cleat. See mortise and tenon joints.
  • Knock-down stretcher. The stretcher's 1 in stub tenons, 5/8 × 3 in, sit in 1-1/16 in mortises in the posts to locate it; a bolt through each post into a barrel nut in the stretcher pulls it tight. Unbolt them and the table comes apart. Drill the bolt and barrel nut holes as the hardware's instructions give them.
  • Feet. Relieve the underside of each foot 1/8 in deep over its middle 18 in, so it stands on its ends.
  • Top. The top moves across its 30 in width, along the cleats. Screw it through three holes in each cleat — the middle one round, the outer two slotted — and estimate the movement with the wood movement calculator.

Building it

Trestles, stretcher and top

  1. Mill the parts

    Bring feet, cleats, posts and stretcher to final size; glue up and flatten the top. Check stock with choosing lumber.

  2. Cut the trestle joints

    Mortise the centre of each foot and cleat; cut the post tenons to fit. Relieve the feet's undersides. Shape the ends of feet and cleats if you like, keeping the joints' material.

  3. Glue the trestles

    Glue each post into its foot and cleat and check the post is square to both; see how to use wood glue.

  4. Fit the stretcher

    Cut the stub mortises in the posts and the stub tenons on the stretcher, then drill for the bolts and barrel nuts as the hardware maker's instructions say. Bolt it up dry and check the trestles stand square to the floor.

  5. Attach the top

    Sand and finish everything, including the underside of the top — applying a wood finish — then screw the top down through the cleats: middle hole round, outer holes slotted.

Safety— In the shop and in use

Cutting the joints and the long top follows woodworking safety rules and table saw safety. Check the bolts are tight before use and after moving it. No load rating is claimed; the table is not for standing on.

Before final assembly

  • Posts square to feet and cleats
  • Stub tenons seat fully in the posts
  • Bolt holes drilled straight, as the hardware specifies
  • Slotted holes in the cleats' outer positions
  • Top finished on both faces

All the furniture plans are listed in the coffee table plan.

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Sources

A BenchRoot design; every dimension is on the drawing and in the cut list as final sizes. Table height is a design choice. Bolt and barrel nut hole sizes come from the hardware's instructions. The design was not built or tested for this page, and no load rating is claimed.

  1. 1.

    Chapter 4: Moisture Relations and Physical Properties of Wood. USDA Forest Service, Forest Products Laboratory — Wood Handbook, FPL-GTR-282, 2021.

    Used for: Wood moving across the grain and very little along it: the top moves across its 30 in width, along the cleats, which is why it is screwed through slotted holes.

About this project

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